In and Out Fitness Kokoda 2013
Trek Report by Brendon Hope (Mates Military Adventure Trekking Expedition).
The journey for In and Out Fitness Organisation and MATES began on the 9th of August as the group flew into Port Moresby eager to hit the track. Assembled was Dane Christison; Founder of In and Out Fitness Organisation, Andrew and Casey Langler, Stuart Earle, Craig McCarthy and David Dyer.
After the compulsory pre trek briefs and a hearty meal at the Gateway Motel the trekkers bedded down in readiness for a 0300 h wake up.
Day One saw us fly from Port Moresby to Popondetta. We had a great flight route and the guys were able to view portions of the Kokoda Trail including both Myola’s.
On arrival the truck was waiting and before long we were headed into the town centre. Our visit to the Northern Beaches Memorial was quite special for Dane as his Great Uncle Gregory Servos had served and been wounded in the fighting at Buna. In honour Dane wore his Great Uncle’s service medals.
A four hour truck ride saw us arrive at Kokoda well after lunch and everybody was appreciative of the lengths that MATES staff had gone to in preparing for the groups arrival. We were greeted by flowers, fresh baking, fruit and plenty of smiles. Last minute prep and a sausage sizzle were conducted before we headed to the Airstrip, Memorial and Museum. The group soaked it all in as the realisation struck home that there were indeed standing at Kokoda about to begin their own pilgrimage.
Our first leg to Deniki was a little quicker than we would have liked however daylight was escaping us and that first climb needed to be completed with plenty of light. To the groups’ credit after a very long day of travelling the guys knuckled under and we reached Deniki, spending the night there on the 71st anniversary of the battle.
Day Two and we were off for a bit of ‘contouring’ through to Isurava. A visit was payed to the KI51 Japanese Spotter Plane before the battlefield which also served as a great example of the terrain away from the track. Casey Langler did particularly well climbing the mud walls to the top!
Lunch overlooking the Isurava Monument is a unique experience and all present were humbled to be in this location. A memorial service was conducted with the Ode read by Dane.
Con’s Rock was the next stop to hear the history of DR Vernon and CPL Vlapp. Stan and Harold Bisset also feature at this location and the entire group was moved to tears by Dave Dyers impromptu rendition of ‘Danny Boy’ as we walked away.
We made Alola by 1600 h and settled in for a cold night.
Day Three is a bit of a monster and the group were well briefed on what to expect. A slippery decent out of Alola then saw us climbing on our way to the Eora Creek gun position. The terrain again was a focus as the gravity of trying to fight in jungle conditions was sharply brought home.
A trip across the Eora Creek Bridge soon had us ascending on our way to Templeton’s Crossing and the Australian War Graves, their bodies now interned at Bomana. A well deserved swim and lunch was enjoyed before more climbing to Dump #1. All in all over 1.2kms of vertical elevation gained for the day.
Day Four was another cracker with our first ascent taking us to the highest point of the trail, just over of 2200 metres in height on Mt Bellamy. From there we romped down through the Moss Forrest and the magnificent pandanas palms. A short stop at Diggers camp and the wreckage of the B-25 Mitchell Bomber gave the guys a chance to get their hands on some relics before cutting across to Myola #2. I always love watching people’s faces as they hit the edge of the clearing and take in the vast expanse in front of them. The group stood in awe of Mother Nature before we moved to Myola #1 and a similar scene. To our disappointment all of the ordinance at the cache outside Myola #1 has now been locked in a cage and cannot be handled. Nevertheless the guys still got a great understanding of ‘biscuit bombing’ operations and the logistic role that native carriers played in our resupply.
A late lunch below ‘the Gap’ was had before moving down to the village of Naduri, home of Ovuru Ndiki one of the last remaining Fuzzy Wuzzy Angels. Ovuru is an amazing character and all were touched by his generosity and humility. It was a special moment for MATES as our Head Guide Stan is also Ovuru’s Grandson.
A knee crunching descent followed by sharp ascent saw us finish the day at Efogi 2, home village for Stan and MATES. On arrival trekkers were greeted by children with flowers and made to feel very welcome. Big kids Dane and Dave had a great time playing with kids and after a great dinner and entertainment by Stan and his family all trekkers retired happily to bed.
Day Five had us on a leisurely stroll down to Efogi 1 and was a chance for Casey, our school teacher in the making to get inside one of the local classrooms and meet with the students. The teachers at the elementary school in Efogi do a great job and we felt very lucky to be given the chance to say hello. King of the Kids Dave Dyer was at it again handing out plenty of treats to keep the kids energy levels up for the day.
A hot climb saw us ascend the side of Brigade Hill and learn the history of Mission Ridge on the way to the summit. ‘The Boneman of Kokoda’ Kohkichi Nishimura was not forgotten and a visit was paid to the tree he is rumoured to have hidden in.
The Battle of Brigade Hill is a key feature of the campaign and a stark reminder of the sacrifice of Australian lives. Following lunch, a history briefing and walk around we paid our respects by raising the Australian flag and reading the Honour Roll for Mission Ridge and Brigade Hill.
A sombre descent took us to the southern side of Brigade Hill and the creek below Menari. The waterfall, not always accessible due to the fast current in the wet season was accessible and all trekkers took the opportunity to have a rinse and ponder the day. After a short stroll we made camp in Menari.
Menari is the site of Lieutenant Colonel Ralph Honner's famous address to the ‘Ragged Bunch of Bloody Heroes’ the 39th Battalion. Our campsite was situated just to the west of this ground and again allowed the trekkers to be completely immersed in the history.
Day Six started early and we were on the trail by 0600 h. The first climb saw us ascend the north side of ‘the Wall’ before heading down into the swamp. The swamp is notorious and many photos from both the campaign and over the years have featured Aussies knee deep in mud trudging through. The weather this time though was on our side and we had a particularly fast trip through to the village of Nauro. Craig McCarthy did a great job setting the pace.
The climb to Nauro gets you just shy of halfway up the Maguli Range and the afternoon reaching the top is always a hot affair. Again all of the trekkers did a great job and teamwork and mateship were certainly evident as everyone reached the top. Along Kokoda the worst thing about going up is knowing that you then have to go down and the descent of the top of the range to Ofi Creek is one of those knee jarring stages. The group performed remarkably well and despite the punishment made it into camp in record time.
Day Seven took us straight up Ioribaiwa Ridge and the southernmost point of advance of the main Japanese force. The many weapon pits both Australian and Japanese stand testament to the suffering endured on this ridge. Another crunching descent and dry run through the creek had us at the foot of Imita Ridge. After a well deserved lunch break the guys knuckled under and ascended one of the steepest ridges on the Kokoda Track to the summit of Imita Ridge. Imita Ridge is the iconic location where the Australian Army stood firm whilst the Imperial Japanese Army made the decision to ‘advance to the rear’. Again the gravity of the terrain helped bring home what our lads went through and how great their achievements were given the conditions and number of enemy.
Goodwater Creek was our stop for day seven and an amazing evening was had sitting out on the grass listening to our porters sing song after song as only they can. They may have started off as shy characters but over the course of the trek their personalities certainly came to light and some great bonds were made.
Day Eight was a short trip to the Goldie River for a swim then up to the Salvation Army campsite used during the war. A final wrap up was conducted by Dane and Craig read a poem written by Sapper Bert Beros at Dump 66 in 1942 as a thank you to our Fuzzy Wuzzy Angels.
A short ascent put us at Owers’ Corner with hugs and handshakes all round. The boys rustled up a BBQ then it was off to the Bomana War Cemetery to pay our final respects. The porters again showed their talents and drew a few tears as they sang their way down the hill on route.
To say that trekking the Kokoda Trail is an emotional experience is an understatement, it truly is one of the great adventure treks in the world, at the same time being one of the most historically significant locations in Australian history. The In and Out Fitness group did an amazing job and executed a respectful crossing of the Trail whilst having some fun and learning a lot about themselves along the way. As a guide I was humbled to be involved and thanks must go to Dane for his efforts. Until next time happy trails!
In and Out Fitness Org. with MATES Military Adventure Trekking Expedition's life changing event for young veterans 2013.
